Our last night in Oaxaca and in Mexico. It has been an excellent trip. Temporarily conscerned by violence in a different part of the country after the Mexican government killed a renowned narco terrorist. The State Department issued a warning to US citizens to shelter in place, a bit scary. But in only applied to some other states, not here. We wouldn't have had an inkling if we hadn't read about it online. And the warnings by US and other governments have been lifted. It of course sounded worse from afar. However, the Boston Globe's travel editor was stranded in Puerta Vallarta, where much of the violence was, not because of having to shelter but because of the blizzard at home.
We have paced ourselves pretty well, I think, a couple of museums or activites a day, with a break midday to relax in the heat of the day at a shady cafe in the Zocalo, the main park, and watch the parade of people stroll by. A good number of gringos. but many more locals and Mexican tourists. Tons of street vendors selling everything from blankets to embroidered blouses to carved wooden spoons and bracelets. There and in the street markets we know that a large percentage of goods is actually from China. There are stores with finer quality expensive crafts and goods.
Today we visited two smaller art museums museums, both quite interesting. They are both located in lovely old houses, not sure of vintage, could be 19th century, but possibly a century or two earlier. Two stories high, with a courtyard in the middle. One had three enormous trees growing up through the courtyard, with a mural covering two walls behind it. I am not sure if it was a temporary or permanent exhibit, in any case, quite striking. Except for the three large garbage bags in one corner. You would think museum administrators would know better.
The museums were the Museo de Arte Contemporano and the Museo de los Pintores Oaxicanos. I would recommend both of them. At the second one, one installation was called It's art if I think it is. There were lengths of twine available and people could create whatever they liked, with knots or weaving or whatever. There was a silver haired woman stapling creations to the wall. I thought at first she was a visitor but later realized she was the artist. Each piece had the creator's name and where they were from. I thought it was wonderful and told her. There were also videos of various "artists" explaining what they had made. Her name is Alison Beda. I am going to have to research her further. She is heading to NYC for another exhibition of her work. She is from Vancouver and said she hadn't had anyone from Vancouver make something yet. Our neighbors here at the hotel El Cid Leon are from Vancouver Island, so I said I'd let them know. I hope they will go visit the museum and her.
Oaxaca, in addition to its art and crafts, is well known for its cuisine. And much of it is regional even within the state. We've eaten at little hole in the wall restaurants and an upscale new cuisine locale featuring produce from its own garden. And at one of the restaurants on the Zocalo on our first night here, amidst the festivities celebrating the 113th anniversary of whatever military event it was. We've had little miniature tostados topped with minced meat and sauce or cheese, chile rellenos, a number of dishes with mole sauces. There are many different moles, dark, yellow, red, only some with the chocolate we know about from home. One item that is featured on many menus, and easily available in the markets, is grasshoppers! They seem to be primarily offered fried with chile and lime seasoning. But menus also mention guatarinos as a sauce. Tonight is my last chance to try them, and I haven't yet decided if I will. I am very curious, and am sure they taste good, but not sure I am mentally ready!
Yesterday we went to the Botanical Garden which is adjacent to the former convent, now impressive if overwhelming museum of culture, where the famous turquoise encrusted mosaic skull which is the most signifcant find from the Mt. Alban archeological site was found. The garden can be seen from the museum. You can only visit with a group tour, which lasts about 20 minutes. It's not so much a tour as an opportunity to visit the garden. The guide let us in with a group of about 30, led us down a path and then let us wander and take pictures for the twenty minutes. And there were other employees cautioning us if we went beyond the allowed paths. We could see just a small portion of the garden but it was quite impressive and well worth the visit. There were many types of cacti, some as tall as ten feet, maybe more.
Well it's time to stop writing and head out to dinner. Perhaps to one of the restaurants on the Zocalo, or possibly another place we've read about.
I will finish this blog in one last post to update to the end of our trip, and let you know whether I was brave enough to try the grasshoppers!
We wanted to buy Max and Michel something from here as a housewarming present. They signed their papers a few days ago, while we were here. We decided on a couple of woodblock prints, or maybe lithographs. I can never remember the different printing processes. Many of were foods. We chose one of a lime, and one of a grasshopper. Of course we'll have to tell them that grasshoppers are food here.
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