And on to Atitlan

We are now on Lake Atitlan,to which I will later return o after Loring heads home, for my two week project doing mosaic murals. For now we are at the opposite side of the Lake, between Santa Cruz la Laguna and -Jaibolito at the Hotel Casa de Mundo, a spectacularly situated place reachable only by boat. I am glad to have taken the recommendation by Lonely Planet.  There are twenty rooms here, built over a period of years by a family of a US man and Guatemalan woman who met in Alaska! They bought the land in the 80’s with the intention of building a house, and the house eventually became a hotel. They raised their two sons here, but now live in Panjachanel, about 20 minutes from here.

Our room overlooks the lake, which most if not all of the rooms do. From our bed, it looks lke we are floating over the lake. There are all kinds of nooks and crannies with chairs and/or hammocks, it’s it’s haard  to decide which one to stop at.

There is also a wood heated hot tub, which takes five hours to fill and heat, and what they call a steam sauna, ie a steam room.  Loring spent a good 20 minutes in there, I lasted less than a minute. It’s quite warm enough just sitting on the terrace. From the terraces you can enter the water, as Loring and several other guests did.  Some of the terraces are actually flooded or underwater, because the lake has risen significantly over the past decade. There are several theories but no definitive answer as to why. One theory is that it has to do with volcanic activity underwater.

The grounds are beautifully landscaped , and most of the plants are also labeled. The views from every twist and turn on the stone steps is stunning.

There are various possible activities, hiking, kayaking, boat rides to other towns around the lake. I have been content to just stop at various alcoves to sit and read or write or nap in a hammock or chair. We did walk over to the next spot, not far, on a wide and easy  path. There are a couple of restaurants and a few private properties, not much more. There is a road that goes that far, so there  were a couple of taxis waiting. As well as a couple of boats.

Dinner is served at long tables where everyone sits together. Last night we chatted with a Swedish couple who has been travelling extensively through Central America, for a total of several months. We have run into them repeatedly today, as well as a few other guests, but in general it is very quiet and low key.

Our other table mates last night were a couple of young women from Texas. In contrast to the travelling Swedish couple, they had come for what they said was a long weekend. The flight from Houston was direct and only $200. But then they would have had a three hour bus or shuttle or cab ride from the airport.  They were already talking about their next, longer trip.

And onto the next day:

It is now Saturday, our last night here at Casa de Mundo. We leave tomorrow for Antigua.  There’s a whole new group of travelers here, and I think most of the ones who’ve been here the last two nights have gone.  In addition to the Swedish couple and the young women from Texas, we’d met and talked to a woman from Germany who lives in Lima, Peru and teaches at a German high school there. She’s been there four years, and may stay another year or two. It’s now their summer vacation so she is travelling. She said she hasn’t really learned much Spanish, because the school is all in German. Not so different, I guess, from when I went to the American College in Paris. But I did learn a fair amount of French then, and was only there two years. And not having become fluent is something I’ve always regretted, and have tried to improve my skills ever since.

The other people we chatted with, last night and this morning at breakfast, were two men travelling together. One was from London, originally, but has lived in Afghanistan and worked as a diplomat, and is now living in Mexico. The other looked like a teenager, but was obviously older as he is an engineer and has lived in a number of places. He is Guatemalan, but after travelling a lot has decided to live in Canada. We were surprised, but he said he likes the cold weather. He’d considered both Vancouver and Montreal, and has decided to move to Montreal.  I wish we’d had a chance to talk with them further, they were both charming and interesting.

They were only here for the one night. The Swedish couple was here for two. I think we are the exception, staying for three or four days at each stop.

Most of our recent travels have involved stays at airbnbs, because of the extra space and kitchen facilities. Neither of us particularly liked eating out every meal. But one disadvantage is that you don’t get to meet as many people. So far on this trip we’ve met, in addition to the Swedes, Germans, and the British and Guatemalan folks here, an Australian woman travelling by herself, a Canadian man also travelling solo, both at Tikal, and a few others. Very few Americans. And of course, staying at a hotel gives us ample opportunities to practice our Spanish with the staff. Although at least some of the staff here speak good English.

The food here has been excellent, all kinds of breakfast possibilities including eggs, burritos, granola with yogurt and fresh fruit. There seems to be a set supper meal, although it’s possible there may be other possibilities.
We had chili rellenos last night, stuffed green chili peppers that are the closest to the ones we once used to devour in New Mexico. The ones at home are not quite the same.         
Tonight we are having shrimp on skewers and mashed potatoes. Right now we are having a mid afternoon snack, a nacho platter with guacamole, salsa, and beans. And a beer for Loring, and a huge limonada for me. That’s been our pattern, on this trip and others, breakfast and supper and a snack mid day.       

This hotel is on so many different levels. It is good exercise just going from one area to another. Our room is on about the same level as the restaurant  but involves a few ups and downs to get there.   And we are about halfway up the hill, there are rooms much higher. I am glad ours is where it is!

The air is a little clearer today than the last few days, and so the views of the lake and the volcanoes is better. I am glad we have had at least one   clear day.  It has been sunny every day, but there is a haze in the air, probably from pollution, that mars the view.

My next post will probably be from Antigua, tomorrow or the day after. Unless something extraordinary happens later today. But just being here is extraordinary. So I guess I mean something unexpected.